CLUTCH INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
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NOTE! |
These
instructions are intended as a suggested method for clutch removal and
replacement. We are not responsible
for personal injury or damage done to the vehicle during this process. |
These instructions
are to provide you with the most detailed guide to installing your new clutch
assembly. The efforts listed here are provided
for cars with basically stock chassis and suspension components. Cars equipped with certain aftermarket sub
frame connector arrangements and/or torque arms may require additional efforts
to remove your cars transmission. Please
refer to the original instructions provided with those parts for removal or
installation of mentioned parts.
It is highly recommended that you read
ALL of these instructions prior to doing
the actual work on your car.
Before getting
started, consider these facts.
For
cars with mileage exceeding 30,000:
It would be a good
idea to replace the pilot bearing during this procedure. It has been found that
the pilot bearing can be excessively warn and allow movement or play of the
transmission's input shaft, causing possible chatter or contact of the clutch
disc against the edges of the pressure plate. This will do nothing but be a
hindrance to performance and proper street manners.
This would also be
an opportune time to replace your transmission mount if it is showing signs of
age or wear.
Factory GM 1LE
mount, part No. 22174970.
As this is the
best solution for now. Your new clutch
assembly is aggressive enough to prematurely fatigue your car's stock rubber
mount, even with the use of the stock rubber torque arm mount.
Cars
equipped with an aftermarket polyurethane torque arm mount:
These are even
more susceptible to premature failure. The
use of a polyurethane transmission mount is not recommended as in some cases
this item has been linked to false knock being registered and the computer
pulling out timing, causing a loss or performance.
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Recommended tools and supplies. |
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Disassembly
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STEP |
ACTION |
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1 |
It's always a good idea to disconnect your car's
battery before beginning any major work on it. This alleviates the risk of
shorting out your cars PCM with would render your car inoperable. |
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2 |
Begin the removal by unscrewing your shifter knob
from the handle. You can then remove
the console boot by giving it an aggressive tug at the sides. Be careful as only plastic clips retain
this piece. |
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3 |
Lift the console door and with a 7mm socket
remove the two bolts that retain the upper console to the console itself. |
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4 |
You can now pull the upper portion of the console
up and disconnect any accessories attached to it, such as your cigarette
lighter plug, ashtray light and traction control harness. With that done you can now remove the upper
console. |
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5 |
Start removing the lower portion of the console
by unscrewing the two 10mm bolts on each side of the top of the console,
under the dash. Then remove the
remaining 10mm bolts located in the console storage area and in the center
next to the factory air bag processor. |
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6 |
Before lifting the lower portion of the console
out of the way, you will need to lift the emergency brake handle straight up.
To do this you will need to slip a
screwdriver or your thumb within the handle's cover boot and disengage the
lock that connects the handle to the ratcheting system. You can then remove the lower portion of the
console. |
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7 |
A 13mm socket on a ratchet or open-end wrench is
all that's needed to remove the shifter handle from the shifter base. |
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8 |
Take a 7mm socket and remove the eight bolts that
hold the shifter dust cover to the floor-pan, and then pull the cover from
the floor. |
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9 |
Remove the shifter base from the transmission;
you'll need a 13mm socket and ratchet. With the four bolts removed, it will require
a good tug, possibly even some prying to unfasten the base, due to the
silicone installed by the factory to prevent leaks. NOTE:
Remember to reapply new silicone when reinstalling the base to prevent
leaks. Clean both the transmission and
shifter base well before reinstalling. |
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10 |
You can now move under the car. NOTE: If you are
performing this installation without the use of a lift, please make sure you
have the car safely secured off the ground with the use of four good-quality
jack stands positioned under the frame and not the differential or control
arms. Start by unfastening the four 7/16" bolts
that hold the driveshaft to the differential. The transmission will need to be in neutral
and the emergency brake off. Place a pry bar between the U-joint and the
shaft for leverage. |
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11 |
You now have a choice as to whether or not you
want to remove the torque arm to easy the removal and installation of the
transmission itself. It is recommended to remove the torque arm all together.
To do so, remove the two nut-and-bolt assemblies at differential with an 18mm
socket and 21mm open-end wrench. |
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12 |
Remove the four 15mm bolts that hold the
transmission cross-member to the floor of the car and the one 18mm bolt that
hold the cross-member to the transmission mount. NOTE: Be sure to have
a jack under the transmission, supporting it's
weight. With the cross-member removed
the transmission will drop a good three-to-five inches. |
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13 |
Loosen the 15mm bolt at the transmission end that
clamps the torque arm bracket together. |
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14 |
Remove the torque arm altogether. If you chose to leave the torque arm in the
car. You simply have to remove the
15mm bolt that clamps the bracket, at the transmission. Pull the removable part of the bracket away
and then take the front of the torque arm out of the other half of the
bracket and let it rest against the floor of the car. NOTE: The front of
the torque arm will act as if it's spring-loaded due to the pressure it's
under from the weight and angle of the differential. Be very careful when maneuvering the front
of the torque arm as risk of injury is high. |
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15 |
Now unfasten the hanger that locates the exhaust
Y-pipe to the transmission by removing the two 14mm bolts that attach the two
parts. |
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16 |
It might be a good idea to remove the driver side
oxygen sensor located in the head pipe, next to the transmission itself. You will need a large 7/8" boxed-end
wrench to do perform this task. Be
sure to apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads of the
sensor when reinstalling. |
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17 |
Now remove the steel-braided hydraulic throw-out
bearing line located on the driver's side of the transmission. Take a long pair of needle nose pliers and
depress the white-collar ring located just past the brass ring protruding
from between the transmission case and bell housing. While depressing the ring, pull back on the
fitting (towards the left floor-pan). You should feel the line "pop" and
come lose. Then reach up and pull the
line out altogether. |
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18 |
Use a 7mm socket and remove the two bolts that
hold the heat shield, covering the hydraulic braided line, to the floor. Leave this part out, as you may be replacing
the line and rest of the Master cylinder later. |
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19 |
Take a 15mm swivel socket and start removing the
eight bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing. Some of the upper bolts will be difficult,
but can be managed. The one on the
upper right side, which retains the transmission breather tube, will have to
be reached with a very long extension from the back of the transmission. NOTE:
Make sure the transmission is safely secured on a jack, as it is now
ready to be removed once these bolts are out. |
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20 |
You can now pull the transmission back and out of
the car. Having a second person give
you a hand is highly recommended, as the transmission weighs 125 lb. and will
be a handful to maneuver. |
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21 |
Using a 14mm socket to remove the eight bolts
that hold the bell-housing to the engine. Some prying might be required as bell-housings
often become seized to the block due to water corrosion from your car's A/C
discharge tube expelling water over the right side of the housing. In this case remove the starter and pry from
between the block and bell-housing where the starter mounts. |
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22 |
Take the 13mm socket and remove the six bolts
that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. NOTE:
be careful when doing this as the pressure plate is spring loaded
against the flywheel. Remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern. Once you're down to removing the last bolt,
secure the pressure plate with one hand against the flywheel so it doesn't
drop when the final bolt is removed. Be warned the pressure plate is somewhat
heavy. The clutch disk will also be
free, so when you pull away the pressure plate, be prepared to catch the
clutch disk, too. |
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23 |
Your final step in the removal process is to
unfasten your original flywheel. You
can do this with a 15mm socket and an impact gun or large breaker-bar. The flywheel is fastened by the factory to 74
Lb ft. so it will be a bit tough to break the bolts free. You must stop the engine from turning to
break the bolts free. You'll need a
flywheel retention tool to do so. |
REASSEMBLY
The reassemble process is a reversal of the
removal, the only difference being you now have to torque bolts to certain
specifications. If you have not
purchased a new or resurfaced flywheel with your clutch, you will need to have
your original part resurfaced. It is
advised that whoever performs the resurfacing do so on both sides of the
flywheel, on the surface and on the back where the flywheel meets the back of
the crankshaft. This is to ensure proper
flatness for long-lasting operation.
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STEP |
ACTION |
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1 |
If you have elected to install a new pilot bearing
during this installation, now is the time to remove the old one and install
the new one. You will need both a
sharp chisel and hammer or an air hammer to remove the old bearing. To install the new one you will need a
socket or a section of pipe that is the same diameter of the outside of the
bearing. NOTE: Do not use
anything smaller then the outside edge of the bearing, because hammering
anywhere else on the bearing will damage it. NOTE: Make sure you
install the new bearing with the beveled side out and flat side in towards
the crank. Seat the new bearing and
tap into place with a hammer and socket or pipe. Hammer the new bearing in until it is flush
with the inside of the crank. |
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2 |
When installing your new or resurfaced flywheel,
place a dab of blue loctite on the threaded ends of the bolts and torque them
in a crisscross pattern to: First pass 15
Lb ft. Second pass 37
Lb ft. Final pass 74
Lb ft. |
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3 |
Clean the surface of the flywheel with brake or
parts cleaner before installing the new clutch disk and pressure plate. Do
the same on the surface of the pressure plate. Place the new disk and
pressure plate up to the surface of the flywheel as a unit. NOTE: Make sure the
disk facing the correct way. There
will be a "flywheel side" listed on one side of the clutch disk. After placing a dab of blue loctite on each of
the pressure plate bolts, install and tighten them until you feel tension.
Take your clutch alignment tool and install it through the pressure plate,
clutch disk and pilot bearing. Torque
all of the bolts in a crisscross pattern in three steps First pass 35
Lb ft. Second pass 45
Lb ft. Final pass 50
Lb ft Once done, the clutch alignment tool should slide
in and out with ease, showing that the clutch disk, pressure plate and pilot
bearing are in total alignment. |
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4 |
Before re-installing your bell housing, place a
dab of anti-seize compound on the two alignment dowels located on the back of
the engine, as well as the ones found on the bell housing itself. This will help eliminate the seizure problem
you encountered earlier and ease the installation of the transmission. Reinstall your bell housing and torque the
bolts to 35 Lb ft. |
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5 |
Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold your original
throw-out bearing assembly to your transmission. Replace the slave. Place a small dab of red loctite on the
bolts after cleaning them and reinstall. Torque the bolts to 71 Lb in. ( |
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6 |
Reinstall your transmission. Again, it is advised to have a second person
helping you perform this task. The
transmission may require some maneuvering to fall into place. It may, however, eventually end up flush
with the bell housing, or probably with space between the two. Because the new PPs may cause a gap to occur
this is where you bring in the 4 bolts noted in the parts list. Space the bolts on the corners of the
transmission and EVENLY bring the bolts in to
get the transmission to mate with the bell housing. DO THIS VERY
carefully. We made sure the
spline was engaged with the clutch plate by turning the pulley crank bolt to
make sure that the rear of the transmission was moving as the crank was
turned. If your transmission mates
flush or has very little space separating it, you can simply use the stock
bolts during this step. You can now reinstall
the stock bolts in the rest of the holes and then one by one remove the long
bolts and replace them with the stock bolts and tighten to 36 Lb ft. |
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7 |
You can now reinstall the driver's side oxygen
sensor if you chose to remove it. |
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8 |
Reinstall your car's torque arm, tightening the
back nuts-and-bolts to 85 Lb ft. and the front bolt to 35 Lb ft. |
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9 |
Now put back your transmission's cross-member,
tightening the outer bolts to 30 Lb ft. and the center nut to 45 Lb ft. |
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10 |
Reinstall your car's driveshaft, tightening the
bolts to 16 Lb ft. |
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11 |
You can now to go to the top of the car and
reinstall your car's shifter and console assembly. Before installing the
shifter base, clean the surface of old silicone and re-apply new silicone.
Tighten the shifter base bolts to 15 Lb ft. and the shifter handle to 20 Lb
ft. |
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IF |
Then |
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You
are replacing your Clutch Master Cylinder |
go
to Step 12 |
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This
was the last item to install |
End
Instructions |
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12 |
Next, you will now need to replace your car's Master
cylinder assembly, located in the engine compartment and under your car's
dashboard. Start by removing the two
screws and 7mm bolts that hold up the dash's bottom cover. With that out of the way you can remove the
internal cover by unscrewing the two 7mm bolts that hold it in-place. |
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14 |
With a long flat-tip screwdriver pry the Master
cylinder rod, retaining clip from the clutch pedal lever. Then pull the rod from the lever. |
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15 |
With a 13mm socket and long extension on a
3/8-inch drive ratchet, remove the four nuts that hold your car's power brake
booster in-place and the two 13mm nuts that hold the Master cylinder
in-place. |
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16 |
Now, go under your car's hood and remove the two
10mm bolts that hold the driver's side air injection tube to the exhaust
manifold (or header if you've installed them). Loop the tube over the intake to keep it out
of the way. |
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17 |
Remove the two 15mm nuts that hold the Master
cylinder to the power booster, and then disconnect the electrical connector
located on the driver's side of the reservoir. |
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18 |
Loosen the two 13mm nuts located on either side
of the ABS block and slide the whole box up and out of the holder. With the master cylinder disconnected, the
whole assembly, from the Master cylinder to the ABS block, will come up and
out f the way. |
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19 |
Pry the Master cylinder reservoir away from the
bracket with a flat-head screwdriver. |
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20 |
Move the power booster out of the way and reach
underneath it and pull the Master cylinder toward the front of the car, then
up and out. The whole assembly should
come out as one piece, the line, slave and reservoir. |
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21 |
Pull the "U"-shaped bracket away from
the original Master cylinder and install it in the new Master. |
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22 |
Feed the new Master cylinder assembly back down
under the power booster, routing the reservoir and hydraulic lines back to
their original locations. |
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23 |
You can now reinstall your power booster, Master
cylinder, ABS block and air injection tube. |
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24 |
Now go back under the car and connect the
hydraulic line to the transmission. Press the end of the line into the brass
fitting on the driver's side of the transmission. You can then replace the
heat shield for the line. |
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25 |
Go back under your car's dashboard and slide the
eye-lit of the Master cylinder rod back over the clutch pedal lever and
replace the retaining clip. Now bolt
back in the power booster and Master cylinder bracket. |
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26 |
To adjust the Master cylinder rod for travel,
start with the rod fully unadjusted (with minimal threads showing) then pump
the clutch pedal several times. Start
the car and attempt to put shifter into first gear. If the shifter does not go into gear, turn
off engine and adjust rod out one full turn. Repeat this process until the shifter goes
into first and reverse gears freely. |
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27 |
You can now replace the dash panels. |
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